MOVIE BLOG: Off-road, off-map

Fair to say, I couldn't fix something even as simple as this...

Upon reflection, pretty much everyone in the group agrees this morning that riding 175 miles ‘in formation’ will be dull, dangerous and decidedly not what we had in mind.  Most of us – including the guides – are itching to get out into the Iran countryside to explore the raw mountain scenery and new surrounds.

I clock Oliver, Rory and Cyman looking very smug – they’ve worked out a good route on the map, with off-road tracks and twisty roads.  Without so much as a glance over my shoulder, I’m suited and booted in record time, and rolling down to the main road with them – this should be a great morning.

But that glance over my shoulder might have been wise.  Fortunately, Mark has my measure, and was at reception afterwards to pick up my forgotten passport…  It took 75 miles before the unease made me realise my mistake: with practice I’m aiming to get it down to nearer 75 yards.  I have a long and distinguished history of forgetting to pick up my passport as I leave for holiday.  Out here it’s even more serious, and I was relieved to not have an extra 150 miles to ride today in a sensitive country.

Tiffany took this one of Mark

The four of us head out of town and take the first side road we come to.  Although ultimately we turn around and try the next side road, this is not before 30 minutes of off-road fun, chugging through small mud villages and out onto the mountain scrub lands.  The views are beautiful this early in the morning, and once the bike dust settles we spy again Mount Ararat – clear, and still impressive from this angle too.

Simon and Oliver look on as they get photo-bombed by new friends.

After asking directions a couple of times, from farmers and shepherds, we hit a side road that leads in the right direction.  Neither maps nor GPS are reliable in scale or accuracy here, so this is quite an achievement.  We're soon scything up through the smooth bends, climbing to over 2000m, once more.  There are poppies aplenty and a few herdsmen out and about, aside from ourselves it's very peaceful – the quiet broken only by these strange Western riders ripping through on their beastly machines. 

Oliver and I are taking video of this road show.  I’ve been able to string it together into a piece, but with internet speeds so slow for uploading you’ll have to wait a while.  It’s worth it.  (*Available for viewing on the SmugMug site.)

Movie: Iran - Part 1

Marguerite relaxes in costume as we regroup.

Our day concludes as the group reforms just outside Tabriz.  We have to ride into the city in convoy, following our guide’s car through the crazy ring roads and one-ways to the hotel.  A few near-death experiences follow, as a group of 12 bikes proves provocative to the other drivers.  

Cars cut in unannounced, or tailgate dangerously trying to get a look at the foreign bikes or just generally impatient and fed up with us.  We’re all on edge and horns, mirrors and brakes are all needed.  This is pretty unpleasant, but do you argue with a fast-moving lorry or wild-eyed taxi on bald tires? 

We’re at Tabriz, and tomorrow we’ve got a day off to explore.  Yay!

My breakfast arrives...