Istanbul

Two days off the bike in one of the world’s most famous cities.  Byzantium (7th Century BC), renamed Constantinople (330AD) and today known as Istanbul remains the gateway between West and East.  Tankers plough the dividing sea lane, through the Bosphorus to the Black Sea, bringing or taking trade.  By motorbike, we’ll choose the land bridge next week to follow the ancient Silk Roads.  There is therefore a symbolic significance to this location and the sky-puncturing minarets demand our attention, physical exclamation marks against the cloudless azure.

The inside's not bad either!

After a lazy morning, I wander off to sample a little more of my surrounds.  What to see?  Perhaps the Aya Sofya - check; the Blue Mosque - check; the Grand Bazaar - check.  I want to say the tiled decorations on the lofty ceilings were awe-inspiring, and how I left each sight with my cultural appreciation enhanced; I want to explain how charming the babbling throng of shoppers was, and how moving I found the five-times-daily call to prayer as it rang out over the city.  All of that is true.

But after clicking away with the camera, borne along in the current of Nikon-kitted tourists spilled from the tour buses, I became jaded.  I wasn’t enjoying myself.  The historical gravitas washed over me, but I sensed it wouldn’t have any lasting effect - in a week, a few days or even an hour I wouldn’t remember any of the detail that I’d read or heard.  I felt somewhat disillusioned - 'why bother doing this?', I began to ask myself.  'Am I really going to spend 18 months going from city to city just to see the local ‘must see’ sights with all these other tourists?  Is that ‘it’, as they say?'

I’d turned up at a magnificent mosque just as At the next mosque, the late afternoon prayer session began, so I would have to wait 90 minutes if I wanted to go inside. My petulent reaction was telling: should I return the next day - was it even worth it?  There were photos to be taken, boxes to tick, other attractions to visit, quick, quick...  I caught myself getting agitated.  I could feel a dissatisfaction rising when by any measure I should be enjoying this 'day off'.

Suddenly, the penny dropped.  I shook my head at my own foolishness; found a delightful courtyard cafe, lit by the warm late afternoon sun and sat down.  For 90 minutes I stayed put, sitting quietly, almost meditatively; sipping a small glass of sweet Turkish tea, reading a thin local newspaper and people-watching.  It was the best part of my day by far.

I am much happier following this quiet time of self-reflection.  I've tuned in to the feelings that travelling provokes.  There's a place for sightseeing, but I must give an equal if not greater time to simply 'enjoying the moment'.  Meeting and talking with the locals, watching their way of life and enjoying the little mundane details of their day, and not stressing about those of mine.

I’ve not cracked it by any means.  Old habits die hard.  But it strikes me I’m going in the right direction, I think.  

By the time I left Istanbul I was ready to embrace a new outlook, ready to start the Silk Road proper, and looking forward to being back on the bike.  

All that said... the city makes for a nice video.  Click here to see my SmugMug movie of... Istanbul