Green cheese and tortoises

Last night we were joined by our final two group members - Andrew and Marg, riding a KTM 990 Adventure and Suzuki 650DR respectively.  However, it was late and we've yet to really 'meet and greet' them.  I suppose it'll take a bit of time for them to settle into the group dynamic, because although we've only been going for a short time, already certain habits and personalities, roles and responsibilities have grown up around a shared tour-history.  

The happy newly-weds.

Oddly, our existing group started to behave like keen children, trying hard to create a good impression - today, for example, we were all up and organised earlier than ever.  Must have been slightly intimidating to our late-comers, who looked very nervous to begin with; but they’re a lovely couple and I sense they’ll fit right in soon enough.  Everyone tried to settle their nerves with a few kind words or a smile, but it’s hard - just as it was at school I guess - and I don't envy their position.

The sun has bleached the colours a bit here, unfortunately.

Motorway all morning, but fast open A-roads in the afternoon.  Through green cheese mineral mountains and over a few large hills.  The roads here are fast, but the surface is generally in good condition and true.  But you can’t afford to relax - the potholes, and er tortoises, come unannounced, and are potentially wheel rim-denting. 

We arrive at Beypazari - a large town surrounding a tall hill.  Seems to be tourist attraction for the rocky clefts that have breached the landscape to rise impressively into the air.  But we stand on the hill and ponder the place: we’re not sure what else supports quite a quantity of residential buildings.  A couple of beers and bread shed no light on this question.  Did anyone say travel makes you wiser? 

Beypazari is a lovely town, particularly the older bits, which are filled with charming folks.  Smiles for everyone and from everyone - not just the many street vendors and market stall holders.  One of our groups found their tea and pancakes paid for by generous (though not apparently wealthy) fellow diners.   Even the few feral kids we encountered were unthreatening and almost half-hearted in pestering us for coins.

As at home, most kids are just curious not tearaways

Our hotel host was as obliging as you could wish.  Mind you, he didn’t point out to me the steep wooden staircase hiding in the middle of my small room!  Before my eyes adjusted to the dim lighting, I had failed to spot it for myself and tumbled forward - bags and all - to the bottom.  Thankfully i was still wearing all my biking kit and didn’t suffer anything more than an instantly bruised toe.  Made a hell of a clatter and bang-thud-crash-bang though, and I was the butt of a few jokes for the evening as you can imagine.

We popped into the village, up the steep cobbled hill that climbed past the hotel.  Our bikes were perched precariously outside the hotel, and visions of a domino tumble were causing us to glance back.  Still, they were there when we returned and hadn’t shifted over night.

Nothing like a 1-in-3 hill start on a fully laden GS to warm the clutch first thing in the morning...  We were off again, with some lovely Turkish scenery to enjoy.  I'll let the photos paint some pictures for you.

The etiquette here is to ask permission and buy some bananas, before taking someone's photo!

Marg and Andrew got through the day well, and a few of us found a bar to celebrate their recent honeymoon - well, that was as good a reason as any.  

To his and my mutual delight it turns out Andrew is as good at finishing off pints of beer as I am at abandoning them half-drunk and / or half-empty.  This could be the beginning of a dutiful friendship.