Friday 3 August 2012

Watching the zebra crossing

Blyde River Canyon

Back on the road, and the Bavarian has new shoes, new lights and a new swagger.  I left Jo'burg yesterday afternoon, and lunch today near Tzeen - catching a bit of the Olympics on TV too, which was a bonus.

I've come north so as to approach the local landscape from the best direction.  The riding is sublime, with smooth surfaces and lovely bends.  I call in at a series of view points, peering down on to the Blyde River Canyon, which is indeed a fine valley - with names like 'God's Window' and 'Jacob's View'.

Just time to enjoy a sun downer

The ride takes longer than I expect (ahem, too much Olympics), but my new LED spot lights spear through the dusk and reveal the road ahead clearly.  No animals wandering, I'm glad to report.  I camp in a backpackers, as temperatures are a bit warmer down here, outside of Johannesburg.  The parking is secure and other facilities good; and I book a safari tour for the morning.

Eeeesh: a 5am wake up call and I'm shivering, waiting for the 4x4 to pick me up.  My breath is steaming and the heater doesn't work, so I huddle down inside my fleecey top and ski hat.  



We pick up another nine tourists: all of us sit in neat rows in the modified pick up, and once the others are on board blankets are handed out.



A short drive takes us to the Numbi Gate, an entrance into the huge Kruger National Park.  This is a jewel in South Africa's crown, and plenty of folks - nationals and tourists alike - come to enjoy the game drives: you can bring your own vehicle and drive around looking for the wildlife.  Motorcycles don't get in, though, as even mine would come off second best against a rhino.

In the 4x4 we have the advantage of raised seating, and an experienced guide.  He in turn has a CB radio, and the guides swap notes on the latest sightings.  The plastic windows are rolled away and off we go - blankets clutched tightly.  The sun is just coming up, creating a classic 'African' kodak moment.



Game drives, even with all the technology, do require a deal of good luck.  We have it today though, and within a few minutes spot a lone male lion finishing his early morning patrol.  It's still pretty dark, but we get a clear view as he pad up to the road and then off into the bush.  No more lions today, mind.



Next up we get rhinos - which were very hard to see when I did a safari in Kenya a dozen years ago.  Then we rattle off the Big Five - buffalo, elephants and even the elusive leopard.  All this within an hour.  That early wake up call was a good one.


The sun moves over the yard arm, warming us to comfortable levels.  There are a couple of comfort breaks at designated, fenced picnic grounds.  The seats lose their plushness as the miles tick by.  

Without a guide, we'd never have spotted our leopard
At regular points through the morning we get further sightings of the wildlife: giraffes, a variety of antelope and a colourful spectrum of birds - huge raptors included.  Hippos waddle out of a river and a few crocs do that log-thing on the warm banks.


Where was the regular army of hippopotami?





When the day is finished - returning to camp by 4pm - I'm well satisfied.  At only R500 (less than fifty quid) this was better than any trip to the zoo.  I'm impressed at how close we came to the animals - except that Cheatah, which skulked off before we arrived.  In winter the foliage is much reduced, and so are the waterholes: both factors making this a good time to visit.


I look forward to doing something like this again - perhaps in Kenya or Tansania, when I get up there.

Meantime, here are a few of the shots from the day...  Standard safari photo fare, but thrilling to be there in person.




Bootiful plumage


This was my lunch date.

All aboard...  4x4 converted to suit



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2 comments:

  1. Harking back to your "camping with the Grizzlies" in Alaska...you do realise the lions can get out of the national parks, right? Just thought I'd mention it... ;-p

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  2. Thank you for that sleep aid, dear brother... ;) Yet another excuse not to shower too regularly - would be a shame to be mistaken for an antelope.

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